Echappement Constant L.M.

Constancy (in the sense of constant force) is a permanent quest for watchmakers. At Girard-Perregaux, this horological ‘holy grail’ has become a reality. Presented in 2008, the Constant Escapement – whose name is a nod to Constant Girard-Perregaux – revolutionised the very foundations of chronometry (timekeeping precision). Leveraging the extraordinary properties of silicon that enables the most innovative structures, the mechanism supplies the balance wheel with constant force that never dwindles, however much energy is available. Ten years after this major breakthrough that won the prestigious “Aiguille d’Or” award in the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, Girard-Perregaux introduces a new Constant Escapement L.M. model featuring a design that is more technical and contemporary than ever.



Although very efficient, the oscillating organ of a traditional watch movement is beset by a recurrent weakness: its isochronism directly depends on the quantity of energy delivered by the barrel. The wide amplitude of the balance wheel when the watch is full wound gradually diminishes as the mainspring unwinds. A linear supply of energy is thus the very foundation of precision.



Protected by four invention patents, the new Constant Escapement L.M. reprises the mechanism that made such a strong impression: a butterfly-wing frame is placed between the lever and the balance spring. This intermediate device serves to support a buckled-blade measuring just 14 microns thick – six times finer than a human hair.

Impossible to make in any material than silicon, this strategic component appears to be floating in a vacuum, taking on a wave-like form. Thus flexed at the point of instability, it is capable of storing a certain amount of energy, before releasing it all at once and transmitting it back to the balance wheel when an impulse causes it to buckle from one state of equilibrium to another.

Aquanaut Ref. 5168G

In 2016, Patek Philippe celebrated the 40^th anniversary of its unique Nautilus collection. Now, in 2017, another anniversary is coming up: the 20^th birthday of its sporty and dynamic Aquanaut line that was first introduced in Basel in 1997. With the Aquanaut Ref. 5168G, a men's wristwatch in 18K white gold, the manufacture delivers impressive proof of how well the elegance of the noble metal complements a rugged and decidedly masculine watch that is water-resistant to a depth of 120 meters.


To commemorate the 20^th anniversary of its exceptionally successful sporty Aquanaut series, Patek Philippe has planned several premieres. The new Ref. 5168G is the first men's Aquanaut wristwatch in 18K white gold. With its somewhat warmer hue, it clearly sets itself apart from stainless steel. But as with the other Aquanaut models (and the Nautilus watches), the design of the gently rounded octagonal bezel with vertically satin-finished flats and chamfered polished flanks remains unchanged. Moreover, with a diameter of 42 millimeters, it is the largest model in this line. The format pays tribute to the original 1976 Nautilus of the same size that was nicknamed “Jumbo” and today is still referred to by that name among collectors. The night blue hue of the dial and the strap is new as well.



Additionally, the night blue color of the dial gradates from bright in the center to black toward the outside as was the case with the Ref. 5164 Aquanaut Travel __time in rose gold (and as a further reminiscence of the bright-dark gradation of the Nautilus). With its finely embossed checkerboard pattern, it provides the ideal backdrop for the applied Arabic numerals in white gold. Thanks to the Superluminova coating, they are readily visible in the dark. Another new facet of the Ref. 5168G: the luminous five-minute markers are set by hand appliques in 18K white gold. Hovering above the dial, sharp-tipped luminous baton hands for the hours and minutes are paired with a slender, counterbalanced and white-laquered parfil seconds hand in bronze. The sapphire-crystal case back reveals the precise and elegant self-winding manufacture movement that choreographs the ballet of time.

Big Bang Unico Depeche Mode

Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller

Rolex is introducing the latest generation of its Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller, a legend among professional divers’ watches created 50 years ago in 1967. The new Sea-Dweller features a larger, 43 mm case and the new calibre 3235, at the forefront of watchmaking technology and employed for the first __time in a Rolex Professional category watch. To enhance the reading of the date, it is equipped, also for the first time, with a Cyclops lens on the crystal at 3 o’clock. The dial bears the name Sea-Dweller in red, a reference to the first model.

Like all Rolex watches, the new Sea-Dweller carries the Superlative Chronometer certification redefined by Rolex in 2015 to ensure singular performance on the wrist.

L.U.C Lunar One

The L.U.C Lunar One flagship model of the L.U.C collection is now available in a new limited edition. Chopard’s perpetual calendar model with astronomical moon-phase display appears attired in 950 platinum framing a deep blue sunray-patterned dial. The Manufacture’s vision of extreme horological complexity is thereby treated to a rare, precious and extremely elegant interpretation bearing the Hallmark of Geneva.



First presented in 2005, the L.U.C Lunar One has over the years become the stellar model in the Chopard Haute Horlogerie collection. This perpetual calendar watch with large date and moon-phase display showcases the full range of watchmaking skills cultivated at Chopard and encompass the very heart of the L.U.C aesthetic. This classic masculine model, governed by elaborate rules of symmetry and optimal legibility that endow it with a perfectly balanced appearance, is introduced this year in platinum.

Marine Équation Marchante 5887

Throughout his career, A.-L. Breguet consistently demonstrated his exceptional mastery of __time measurement. His strong involvement and his revolutionary developments earned him significant recognition and numerous honours. Renowned the length and breadth of Europe, Breguet found a particularly active admirer in Louis XVIII, king of France. In 1814, the latter appointed him a member of the Bureau des longitudes in Paris. This body created in 1795 by the National Convention was dedicated to the advancement of the various branches of astronomy and their applications to geography, navigation and geodesy (the measurement and understanding of Earth’s physical properties).



Its tasks included the annual publication of reference documents such as astronomical ephemerides. The Bureau des longitudes was a prestigious organisation whose 20 or so members included geometers, astronomers, seafarers and associate artists. The only representative of his profession that was eminently useful to physicists and navigators, Breguet became the horological authority, notably for the calculation of longitudes at sea. As an extension of this distinction, through an ordinance issued on October 27^th 1815, Louis XVIII awarded A.-L. Breguet the official title of chronometer maker to the French Royal Navy.



This was the most prestigious title a horologist could hope to receive, given that the very concept of marine chronometry implied scientific knowledge. It also involved playing a crucial role for the country, as marine chronometers were of capital importance for fleets by making it possible to calculate ships’ positions at sea.



Following in the wake of this unique heritage, the House of Breguet now launches a worldwide exclusive model named the Marine Équation Marchante 5887. This “Grande Complication” marks the start of a new era for the contemporary Marine collection.



The equation of __time is one of the rarest and most fascinating horological complications. It serves to display the difference between mean solar time, corresponding to civil or standard hours and minutes, and true solar time, meaning the actual solar hours and minutes.



Since Antiquity, the sun has been used as the basis of time. Nonetheless, the visible motion of the sun – the true solar time indicated on sundials – is irregular. With the improvement of timekeeping precision, watches and clocks became the basis of time and true solar time was replaced by mean solar time, within which each day has the same duration of exactly 24 hours. Mean solar time may show a discrepancy with true solar time ranging from minus 16 minutes to plus 14 minutes.



On just four days a year, the two times are exactly the same. Given that the sun’s various positions in the sky are reproduced in an identical manner on the same dates, watchmakers can “program” them by means of a special cam. The latter is shaped like a figure 8 and mechanically reproduces the path of the sun’s successive positions, called an analemma curve. Requiring extremely accurate execution, the cam is coupled with a feeler-spindle that drives an equation lever serving to indicate the difference between civil time and solar time (-16 to +14 minutes).



This read-off is generally provided on a sector or subdial. It is then up to the user to mentally add or subtract the difference displayed in relation to mean time in order to calculate true solar time. The new Marine Équation Marchante from Breguet supersedes this principle. It simultaneously indicates civil time and true time by means of two separate minutes hands. The running solar hand, adorned with a facetted golden sun, provides a direct reading of solar time minutes that is both quicker and more user-friendly.



This apparently simplicity conceals an arduous construction process that few watchmakers are capable of achieving. The solar minutes hand has to meet two imperative demands: it must sweep in a conventional way around the dial, like the civil minutes hand, while also daily moving away from the latter by a distance that varies in accordance with the analemma curve, in order to display the equation.



Breguet was able to accomplish this by equipping its running solar hand with a differential gear powered by two rotation sources operating entirely independently: the rotation of civil minutes, and that controlled by the lever in contact with the equation of time cam, which makes one full turn per year. Breguet has developed an extremely slim equation cam borne by a transparent sapphire disc also serving to correct the equation of time by month.



The complexity that the running equation of time brings to this model is naturally complemented on this “Grande Complication” by a perpetual calendar. Two apertures – one between 10 and 11 o’clock and the other between 1 and 2 o’clock – respectively display the days of the week as well as the months and the leap-year cycle.



The date appears inside the chapter ring by means of a retrograde hand tipped with an anchor motif and sweeping across an arc running from 9 to 3 o’clock. The dial layout of the information has been carefully designed to ensure simple and intuitive linear reading, along with impeccable visual appeal.



Based on the self-winding 581DR calibre, the new Marine Équation Marchante by Breguet also flaunts a third complication that is noteworthy in its own right: a 60-second tourbillon with a titanium carriage housing a Breguet balance with a silicon balance spring. This innovative characteristic notably enables the balance wheel to achieve a 4Hz frequency, while maintaining a particularly comfortable power reserve for a self-winding model. This 80-hour autonomy is displayed through an aperture between 7 and 9 o’clock.



The ingenuity of this spectacular model is accentuated by the precious expertise of the artisans exercising their skills within the House of Breguet. The front dial features two types of engine-turning, including a “wave” pattern specifically developed for this new creation. The inscription “Marine royale” is engraved on the tourbillon bar, whose execution naturally draws the gaze.



Visible through a sapphire caseback, the bridges have been delicately chased to depict in meticulous detail the Royal Louis, a first rank vessel in the French Royal Navy. The barrel is adorned with a windrose motif, in reference to astronomical navigation. Thanks to the carefully chosen positioning of the oscillating weight on the rim of the calibre, the self-winding movement deploys the full splendour of its decoration.



A truly magnificent timepiece, the new Marine Équation Marchante by Breguet sets the tone. It features new aesthetic signature codes giving it a modern and dynamic appearance: central lugs combining polished and satin-brushed surfaces; more open fluting, with visible flanks; a crown topped with a polished “B” against a sandblasted background; as well as a crown adorned with a chamfered and satin-brushed wave motif.



This “Grande Complication” comes with a 43.9mm-diameter case in rose gold or platinum. The rose gold version frames a silvered dial and an anthracite movement, while the platinum interpretation has a blue dial and a rhodium-plated movement. Elegance, legibility and aesthetic balance are the keynote features of these two equally sumptuous models.

Aquaracer Camouflage 300 Metres – Calibre 5

The __time has come to switch to Commando mode. Because yes, military style is this year’s hottest trend. With khaki everywhere, and printed camouflage making a powerful return, it is sure to bring out the GI Joe or Jane in you.



The military look may be on trend, but take care: Commando style does have its risks. A head-to-toe look must be avoided. No exceptions. Today's look calls for subtle little hints. A few carefully selected accessories which give an instant lift to an outfit. The watch is a perfect example.



The Aquaracer Camouflage offers everything you'd expect from an all-terrain watch. This is due in no small part to the fact that it belongs to the Aquaracer collection, TAG Heuer's line of sports watches.



Remember that, ever the pioneer, Edouard Heuer filed the first patent for a watertight case in the history of watchmaking in 1892. It was an immediate success. Since that time, the Aquaracer (the collection created by TAG Heuer in 2003) has continued to evolve, developing into the perfect timepiece for all kinds of extreme conditions, not just diving and other seafaring activities.



Water-resistant to 300 metres, the robust lightweight case is machined from Grade 2 titanium with a matt black PVD treatment to reinforce its stealth effect, as nothing must catch the light or the enemy's eye. The bezel has a minute track (graduated every minute for the first 15 minutes) and is made from matt black ceramic, which is also particularly scratch-resistant. Perfect in a hostile environment.



Hostile like the Siberian Tundra which inspired the "Arctic" camouflage pattern. To complete these two models, what could be better than a NATO strap, tone-on-tone to match the dials? For the "Arctic" model, TAG Heuer has developed a custom pattern, which is woven with threads of different colours, to ensure both that it is hard-wearing and that the colours are uniform.



For the "Khaki" model, the watch is complemented by a military green fabric strap, with top-stitching details. Being in action is no joke.

Pilot Type 20 Extra Special 40 mm

An imposing presence and an adventurous temperament: Zenith’s famous Pilot watch displays its vintage style on all wrists. In a new 40 mm case made from aged steel, its attributes inherited from aviation’s pioneering days – a broad fluted crown, oversized luminescent numerals, a grained dial and an in-house ‘motor’ – make an ideal match with the retro shades of the oily nubuck straps with contrasting stitching.



Shades of mustard, khaki, blue or burgundy. A 40 mm diameter. Elegant hues and ideal proportions, while never losing sight of the spirit of adventure that forged its legend. Aged steel, a grained-finish dials (slate-grey, khaki, blue or burgundy colors) with large beige numerals, nubuck straps: the new Pilot from Zenith lends itself to the most stylish vintage variations.

Marine Grand Deck Tourbillon in rose gold

When it launched in 2016, the Marine Grand Deck Tourbillon, edited in 18 timepieces of white 18ct gold, received the rapt attention of the entire Haute Horlogerie industry. With its highly original __time display that evokes the boom of a ship, it incorporates the cutting-edge technology, innovative mechanisms and fine craftsmanship that have made the Ulysse Nardin name.

For 2017, the Marine Grand Deck Tourbillon emerges from Le Locle, Switzerland in a warm color scheme: a limited edition of 18 pieces crafted in 5N rose gold.

In a proud nod to its maritime roots, the Marine Grand Deck Tourbillon marries meticulous craftsmanship with technical avant-garde to explore the elements on the deck of a yacht. The craftsmanship, a Ulysse Nardin fundamental, is clearly displayed by the detail on the dial: finely crafted in pin oak, its unique marquetry is an incredibly lifelike depiction of a ship’s deck. The slightly darker wood of this edition is the color of chocolate, enhancing the rose gold of the case and lugs.

The technical avant-garde so acclaimed by the international press and watchmaking professionals is evidenced by the patented __time mechanism, a revolutionary new take inspired by a yacht’s boom, ropes and winches working together to hoist the sails. Using super-strong yet ultra-fine nanowires for the ropes, the mechanism employs a unique retrograde jumping hour device, driving the minute hand with 2 pulleys and 2 winches in gold. The jumping hour is visible in a double aperture under the maritime symbols at 12 o’clock, in white for excellent visibility. Quick time correction is enabled with the pusher at 2 o’clock.

The minutes are displayed in gold on a spinel arc across the center of the dial, with the golden boom drawn across to show exact time. The system, which is regulated by a double-barrel system, incorporates the magnificence and extreme precision of a flying tourbillon, nested in a gold ring at 6 o’clock.

Employing the UN-630, a 60-second flying tourbillon with manual winding movement, the Marine Grand Deck Tourbillon has a generous 48h power reserve and is water resistant to 100 m. Ulysse Nardin is clearly in its element when venturing on the high seas, as evidenced by this latest creation.

Rolex is introducing three new versions of its Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona in 18 ct yellow, white or Everose gold. These versions are fitted on the innovative Oysterflex bracelet in elastomer reinforced with a metal blade, and are equipped with a monobloc Cerachrom bezel, patented by Rolex, in black ceramic. This latest evolution is a blend of high technology and sleek aesthetics, and pays tribute to the heritage of this legendary chronograph. The black bezel is reminiscent of the 1965 model that was fitted with a black Plexiglas bezel insert.



Like all Rolex watches, these new Cosmograph Daytona versions carry the Superlative Chronometer certification redefined by Rolex in 2015, which ensures singular performance on the wrist.

Luminor Submersible 1950 BMG-TECH™ 3 Days Automatic – 47mm

A new world preview from the Panerai Laboratorio Di Idee: the first watch case made entirely of BMG-TECH™, a metallic glass with excellent characteristics of strength and durability which enable it to preserve its appearance over time.



The Panerai Laboratorio di Idee presents an invisible but revolutionary innovation, resulting from its continuous research into design and new materials: BMG-TECH™. The secret of this material, which has been used to make the case of the new Luminor Submersible 1950 BMG-TECH™ 3 Days Automatic, lies not so much in its appearance – which is similar to that of titanium but darker grey in colour – as in its atomic structure, which provides a range of very useful qualities for an underwater watch: extreme resistance to wear, high strength and great lightness.



BMG-TECH™ – the material of which the case, bezel, winding crown and associated protection device are made – is a metallic glass (Bulk Metallic Glass), that is a material made from a special glass-like alloy in a way which prevents crystallisation, so that the atoms do not arrange themselves in regular geometric structures. The alloy (consisting of zirconium, copper, aluminium, titanium and nickel) is subjected to a high-pressure injection process at a high temperature and then to a cooling process lasting for only a few seconds, so that the atoms do not have enough __time to become arranged in an ordered, regular structure, as normally happens in crystals.



The “chaotic” structure of the material is the secret of its properties – in particular, its extreme corrosion resistance, its great robustness and resistance to external shocks and its resistance to magnetic fields – bringing further advantages to the owner of a watch which also provides excellent performance while preserving its appearance virtually unchanged over time.



The innovative properties of BMG-TECH™ provide additional features for a model rich in technical content and of unmistakable Panerai identity. An underwater instrument with water-resistance guaranteed to 30 bar (a depth of about 300 metres), the new watch has the bezel with a graduated scale for calculating the __time of immersion, which rotates only anti-clockwise, the date window at 3 o’clock and the seconds counter at 9 o’clock.



The clear markers on the blue dial – which has a new polished finish creating fascinating reflections – provide absolute ease of reading and excellent visibility under all lighting conditions and even in the dark, thanks to the use of two different types of Super-LumiNova® on the markers, making it easy to identify the reference points for reading the time and the length of immersion.



Entirely developed and created by the Panerai Haute Horlogerie Manufacture, the movement is the P.9010 automatic calibre with a power reserve of three days. Consisting of 200 components and with 31 jewels, the calibre is 133⁄4 lignes in diameter and 6 mm thick, which enables the thickness of the case to be reduced. The balance is fixed by a bridge with twin supports and it oscillates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz). It is connected to a device which stops it as soon as the winding crown is pulled out, so that the watch can be synchronised with a reference time signal. In addition, the hour can easily be adjusted without interfering with the movement of the minute hand, by means of the device which moves the hour hand on its own, in jumps of one hour forward or backward. This function is very useful when changing time zones or moving between summer time and winter time, particularly since adjusting the time automatically changes the date when necessary.



The back of the new Luminor Submersible 1950 BMG-TECH™ 3 Days Automatic (PAM00692) is made of titanium and the strap is made of black rubber.